Second hand skirts

I was in Chelsea Michigan recently. There was a wonderful clothes store that had been in business since the 1950's. It smelled wonderfully like Bay City's Mill End. Creaky floors, dark wood shelves and display tables. The clothes they sold were very trendy and I liked them. Well made, but still foreign made, which of course, most likely means, sweatshop made. I did find a skirt/top made in Canada, but even made in the U.S. A. doesn't guarantee workers are well paid. The outfit was dark brown and looked like thin leather. The blouse had a ruffly low cut bodice and the skirt was tight at the top and flared out at the it's knee length. It was 120.$ marked down to 90.$ Too much for me on an impulse shopping trip. So I wandered down the street and found a second hand store on the second floor of the second to the last shop. I took off my 'big city wool reefer', hung it on a rack and got down to business. If it's second hand, I will buy it regardless of where it's made. I figure their money has been made and the product is as good as dead. So the money I spend on it, will all go to the shop keeper.
I went through a huge amount of shirts and took a rayon set of sleeveless shell with the matching sweater over it. It's knitted out of thin ribbons. Very loose. All the stuff I bought was beige.
Then I hit the skirt racks. It's my desire to wear more skirts and LESS pants. I just don't know what to do about shoes. I'm so self-conscious, I hardly wear accessories at all. I worry they won't match or be wrong is some way. There is less anxiety getting dressed if I just put two pieces on and go. I don't have very many clothes and seldom buy them for this reason. But I hate my clothes. I want to wear more exotic fabrics and styles. I want them to flatter my figure, not hide it. I don't want to dress like a grandma.
So I ended up with two tea length beige skirts. One straight cut linen and one polyester in two flowy layers.
Well, I just washed them. Everything looks great, except the top layer shrunk on the two layer skirt. Now I have yet ANOTHER sewing project. GREAT!!(she throws up her hands sarcastically).
But I also have some new clothes. Good for me.

9. SOME NOTES ABOUT MY FIRST DRESS DIARY.

I have moved it around so much that I'm not even sure what it says anymore. Next time, each items sewn will have its own post from start to finish. That is how the diaries I learned from were organized. Then I could refer to them for instruction.
There are more pictures, but I don't like the photo upload thing on Blogger. Until I learn how to operate it better, I'm keeping pictures to a minimum.
Here are some definitions/descriptions that may not be included already.

Camicia: I pronounce it KAM-EEZ'-AH. It's an Italian chemise. The arms are long so that I can pull fabric through holes in my sleeves and achieve that puffy look.

Bodice: The top part of my gown. This one is attached to the skirt. I used some metal bones that I had and some plastic zip ties. The dry cleaner told me they didn't think the plastic could endure more than 1 or 2 cleanings without melting. I washed the gown, after the season was over, in the washing machine. I let it spin, but didn't put it in the dryer. I hung it and it doesn't even need pressing. I hand washed the sleeves as they are separate. I may attach them in the future.

Skirt: I cartridge pleated the skirt. In the future if I do it again with the same weight fabric, I'll add a strip of wool to give it more stiffness and make it stand out more.

I think that everything else is probably mentioned in the other posts. I hope this is going to be useful to ME as well as any passerbys.

8. LAST MINUTE RE-BUILDING

It’s hours later. I have FINISHED THE EYELETS. All 24 of them. I put the Camicia on, then the rope petticote over it, and then the gown, on myself. Problems insued: camicia neckline too big.kept falling off shoulders, camicia sleeves to long and open, kept getting in way of hands. Dress: straps and lacing is behind me, I can’t reach it.

Solution: I put the gown on backwards. That’s right, backwards. My uneven shoulder heights are more of a concern than bosom/back ratio. It worked like a charm. I was able to lace myself up and postition the straps for permanent placement. I could bring the waist in 3″ total. 1 1/2″ on each side. I planned for that, but abandoned it when sewing the eyelets. I think the blue is too bulky and I didn’t want to cut it.

I will make the waist smaller somehow, permanently attach the straps, now that I see I can drop the dress over my head with one side laced up already and try it on frontways.

Later that same day. I can’t make the waist any smaller because of the eyelets being sewn right on top of the fold over part. The straps are driving me buggy! I finally put the dress on the dress form, which doesn’t fit it. i tightened the waist lacing on both sides so the bottom of bodice would rest on hips and hold the dress up so I can adjust the straps. NO!

it just isn’t comoing together. I’m going to work on something else.

How do you get the cartridge pleated camicia to stay put. it keeps loosening up. Twice I have sewn it and it’s still to big of a neck opening. What am I doing wrong? I had no trouble with the skirt cartridge pleats.Of course they were bigger and I sewed them down individually. I’m not doing that on the camicia. How did I anchor them? Oh, yes, I had to divide them between front and back of bodice. The camicia neck is a circle. But I am considering after looking at pictures just now, of sewing it down in 4 separate pieces. 2 sleeves, front and back. 3/2008: I added 1/2"elastic to shoulders. The front and back are still huge after yet another attempt to gather them tight. But the bodice/corset will keep it in place, that is why I only put elastic in the shoulders.

It is the next day, I have RE made the neck line for the 1000th time. I’m stillnot happy with it. If I get it low where I want it in the front, it falls off the shoulders, if I get tighten it up, the underarms are too tight. I can’t get a middle ground.

Right now, the camicia in on the dress form with the gown over it and laces tied. I have pinned the position for ME on the straps, so I don’t need the dress form to fit there, i think. It is easier to adjust them there than on a flat table. I want to adjust how the camicia sits under the gown, but the laces are too tight. When I stood back to look at, the front is crooked. the back is not centered. that has to be fixed before i do the straps. So I panicked and now I’m sitting here eating lunch and typing. The thought of me walking around in that dress is terrifying. What was I thinking? My belly hurts and my head is spinning.

It’s the night of the 12th. I have taken out all the stitching AGAIN on the camicia neckline. I tried the dress on me, and Paul helped postion the straps. I will go sew them down and hope that ends the strap catastrophe. PLAN THE ENTIRE BODICE BEFORE STARTING. What a horrid day.

I have the trim to sew down from when I re-did the bodice from the top edge. NEVER DO THAT AGAIN. Remember, DO NOT ATTACH THE SKIRT UNTILL YOU GET THE BODICE COMPLETELY FITTED AND FINISHED.

6. SEWING EYELETS BY HAND

I inserted a washer between the two heavy foundation fabrics of the bodice after I made the initial hole with the black handled awl. Then I made the first pass on the inside ring of the washer and made 3 temporary stitches around the outside to keep the washer from slipping around until I completed the second pass. I have all the bodice eyelets started with the first pass. There are only 4 of 24 to finish with the second pass. Then the bodice eyelets will be done. I did them with the only embroidery floss color I had enough of, which was a light blue that doesn’t go with the green of the under skirt and trim. I bought some dark navy floss to match the bodice exactly with the intent of going over the light blue. But this was such a BIG undertaking that I want to show off the eyelets first. Why am I not sewing right now, since I’m so close to being done? Because I’m A.D.D. and I’m so close to being done with something. My mind is racing about the next project. I couldn’t stand it anymore and came in here to take a break.

7. UPDATE OF BODICE,SLEEVES, HEM

Camicia- i made this months ago. Now I'm looking at it again and it needs to have the neck opening made smaller. I have to take off the 'waist band' style edge and tighten up the cartridge pleating. The back of the linen camicia has a muslin panel. I ran out of linen.

Bodice- 5 more eyelets to go. I see the improvement in the last row compared to the first and it's very relaxing. I like hand work.

Sleeves-the straps are not adjusted yet. I have not put any attachment points on either sleeve or strap. The jewels are not hand-sewn on the pinch points of each sleeve. I have yet to make a commitment about the design and logistics.

Hem- This is done. I have not tried the dress on yet to see if it is right. I did it according to the pins Sarah D. put in some weeks ago. We felt confident the dress was hanging on me correctly with proper underarm room and symmetry.

Adornments and Shoes- I have a few things in mind and a pile of jewels on the 'sewing table' (a.k.a. the guest bed). No work can be done until the other things are finished. And I have to re-attach the front trim that I removed to REBUILD the bodice from the top.

5. The ROPED PETTICOTE

THE ROPED PETTICOTE

I took the chemise that Nan had made me the first year Maid Marian’s opened and sewed clothesline rings around the bottom. This petticote will be worn under all my gowns. It will keep the bottom nicely rounded and also keep it from going between my legs when I walk.

CONSTRUCTION

A tan cotton chemise, 3/8 ” clothesline(cotton around a different center, possibly nylon).

I followed the “RECIPE FOR A CORDED PETTICOTE” instructions from http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cordpett.html and http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cordtips.html,

with additional help from http://ladygreensleeves.blogspot.com/2007/05/rope-petticoat-diary.html

I noticed the bottom edge was not even, but I went ahead and measured 2″ from the bottom for my first row. I had to pick it all out and start over, by the time I got to the second row. I put the chemise on the dress form and measured 7″(a random number) from the floor and marked the chemise. Then I put it on the table and folded it (wrong sides together) matching the bottom edge of chemise to 7″ line. This gives me about a 2″ from the bottom edge as originally planned and it evened out the bottom edge. Then I ironed the line. I went to the sewing machine with a regular small foot, adjusted the needle to the right, which made it possible to sew right next to the rope like a zipper foot, without having to stuff the whole thing under the arm of machine, my solution for how to place the garment on the left of me and keep the presser foot against the rope edge. I sewed with 3″ stitch length. I opened the channel made by ironing and layed the rope in the crease. This is the RECIPE method as opposed to the 1″ casing method. I put a safety pin through the end of rope, anchoring it to the fabric. I am working on the right side of fabric. This WELT is going to be facing the right side of petticote. I sewed all the way around. When I got to the end, I cut the rope off. Hammering the ends and laying them nose to nose in the channel is how I finished each row. Hammering makes them lay flat. I easily handsewed through the fabric and rope to permanently anchor the rope ends. I staggered the rope ends on each row as suggested in TIPS. The intervals were as follows: 2″ from bottom, next row-1 1/2 “, 2″, 2′1/2, 3,4 and another 4. That should be enough. I haven’t tried it yet. I can always add more later.

After wearing the gown to faire in September of 2007, I added 2 more rows of rope to the top of the petticote. This shortened it by 4 inches. It is nice and full now.

To make a skirt out of a chemise. When I have finished the rows of rope, I will determine on me, where 5″ from the floor is and cut top off chemise to make it sit on my waist. I will use the throw away part to make a waistband and ties for the sides. Some petticotes are gathered and some say that makes it lay funny. I haven’t decided how I want to do it.

I ended up actually using the neck/armhole openings and accompanying drawstring of the original chemise; for my ties at the waist. The underarms stick out a bit, but the gown holds them down.

4. PREPARING TO MAKE EYELETS

The dress was being coy at breakfast; but after an invigorating press, it's in a much better mood. I have hemmed it, re-did the bodice sides for the 2 to the 10th power times and left the straps for later.

The point of this blog is to announce, I have marked all the positions for eyelets and I have POKED THE FIRST HOLE. I think the dress and I know each other well enough by now. We're ready to take this relationship to a new level.

Eyelets are holes in the bodice, used to guide the lacing. My dress will lace on the sides, close to the back. Most dresses have grommets. I am going to make mine by hand. I am going to spiral lace instead of the common X's. It's more 'period' and I want to learn something new.

So I'm feeling up to the task. now if i can just STAY on it. I've been reading alot about ADD. It explains alot about me. I think much of my anxiety is linked to it. Most people say I'm scatterbrained or immature, not in a really bad way, some people DO like me. Perhaps, I'm a high maintenence, small dose friend. Perhaps, many of you are ADD as well and don't mind the behavior. Perhaps, I'm talking out my....what?.....what did you say dress?....okay, i'll be right there. ...It's the old ball and chain....I gotta go.

3. TAKING A BREAK...FROM SANITY.

H.BEDEE...AH..BEDEE..AH..BEDEE..AH..THAT’S ALL FOLKS!
I have gone as far as i can go on the ren dress. I'm going to put the eyelets in anyway, hem it and add 'adornments'. then I'm going to attempt to wear it in public. Whatever else should have been done, isn't going to be. This will just have to do. I CAN'T TAKE IT ANYMORE. THIS DRESS IS MAKING ME CRAZY. DO YOU HEAR ME? IF I HAVE TO DO ONE MORE ALTERATION ON THIS DRESS I'M GOING TO GO INSANE AND I'M GOING TO TAKE YOU WITH ME!!!

Deep breath, serenity now, in goes the good air, out goes the bad air.......

okay i feel better. it seems to look okay as it's hanging there. I'm sure I've just gotten obsessed, like i do. everything is going to be fine.

Paul and I are going to MRF on Sunday the 19th. we hope to see you all there. and no i won't be wearing the new dress yet.

I think I made the bodice too long, so I did some major revisions on my ren dress.

2. I HAVE A DRESS FORM

DRESS UPDATE
FIRST, THE QUESTION. If I DO make the eyelets, and I try it on and it doesn't close because it's too small, what should I do? Cry, break something?

I have borrowed a dressform. I have made the adjustments on it. Several wouldn't go. For example, I am smaller in the bust than it will go. I am longer in the waist in front and back and deeper in the underarm. So this dressform isn't exactly me. I have put the camecia on it with the dress over it. Just now, I laced up the sides(and let me tell you, I am never doing ladder lacing with ribbon strips on a side/back bodice EVER AGAIN). I laced up the sides and IT DOESN'T CLOSE ALL THE WAY. Now I realize it's 2 inches bigger than I am on top and shorter, but, but, but. what if I put it on me after making the new eyelets and find out it doesn't close and I need to ADD fabric. Then I will have done the eyelets for nothing. So back to my question. What should I do? Scream perhaps. I'm going to ask Pam for advice. She makes these dresses all the time. That's about it.

1. My First Ren Gown Called 'Greensleeves'

THIS INFORMATION HAS BEEN MOVED FROM WORDPRESS TO THIS NEW PUBLIC BLOG. I HAVE ONLY EDITED THE TEXT A LITTLE AND MOVED PHOTOS AROUND. THE INFORMATION IS THE SAME. THIS BEGINS THE DIARY OF MY FIRST REN GOWN.

The main body of the dress is finished except for strap placement and hem. I finished the sleeves this morning. They are made from 4 separate pieces, stitched at 5 points. Then a black glass bead was sew over the stitching. No photos of patterns available. It was very hit or miss in the making. Even now that I wear them, I'm not entirely pleased with the fit.
There is some hand sewing to do and I may add beads and adornments. I will attempt to wear it in September at MRF. It has been a fun project. When I look at it, I can hardly believe I made it. Mostly I drafted my own pattern pieces. The ones I used pre-made, I altered. It has strip lacing and I may make eyelets instead sometime in the future.
I don't have a dress form at this point. The dress is hanging crooked, neccessary to keep it on the hanger, the sleeves will be handsewen together. Enjoy.