Monday, January 14, 2008

5. The ROPED PETTICOTE



THE ROPED PETTICOTE

I took the chemise that Nan had made me the first year Maid Marian’s opened and sewed clothesline rings around the bottom. This petticote will be worn under all my gowns. It will keep the bottom nicely rounded and also keep it from going between my legs when I walk.

CONSTRUCTION

A tan cotton chemise, 3/8 ” clothesline(cotton around a different center, possibly nylon).

I followed the “RECIPE FOR A CORDED PETTICOTE” instructions from http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cordpett.html and http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cordtips.html,

with additional help from http://ladygreensleeves.blogspot.com/2007/05/rope-petticoat-diary.html

I noticed the bottom edge was not even, but I went ahead and measured 2″ from the bottom for my first row. I had to pick it all out and start over, by the time I got to the second row. I put the chemise on the dress form and measured 7″(a random number) from the floor and marked the chemise. Then I put it on the table and folded it (wrong sides together) matching the bottom edge of chemise to 7″ line. This gives me about a 2″ from the bottom edge as originally planned and it evened out the bottom edge. Then I ironed the line. I went to the sewing machine with a regular small foot, adjusted the needle to the right, which made it possible to sew right next to the rope like a zipper foot, without having to stuff the whole thing under the arm of machine, my solution for how to place the garment on the left of me and keep the presser foot against the rope edge. I sewed with 3″ stitch length. I opened the channel made by ironing and layed the rope in the crease. This is the RECIPE method as opposed to the 1″ casing method. I put a safety pin through the end of rope, anchoring it to the fabric. I am working on the right side of fabric. This WELT is going to be facing the right side of petticote. I sewed all the way around. When I got to the end, I cut the rope off. Hammering the ends and laying them nose to nose in the channel is how I finished each row. Hammering makes them lay flat. I easily handsewed through the fabric and rope to permanently anchor the rope ends. I staggered the rope ends on each row as suggested in TIPS. The intervals were as follows: 2″ from bottom, next row-1 1/2 “, 2″, 2′1/2, 3,4 and another 4. That should be enough. I haven’t tried it yet. I can always add more later.

After wearing the gown to faire in September of 2007, I added 2 more rows of rope to the top of the petticote. This shortened it by 4 inches. It is nice and full now.

To make a skirt out of a chemise. When I have finished the rows of rope, I will determine on me, where 5″ from the floor is and cut top off chemise to make it sit on my waist. I will use the throw away part to make a waistband and ties for the sides. Some petticotes are gathered and some say that makes it lay funny. I haven’t decided how I want to do it.

I ended up actually using the neck/armhole openings and accompanying drawstring of the original chemise; for my ties at the waist. The underarms stick out a bit, but the gown holds them down.

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